Varkala: A Travel Guide to Kerala’s Cliff Beach

Few beach towns in South India announce themselves quite like Varkala. Long before you reach the sand, the land itself does something dramatic: it rises into a wall of red laterite cliff that runs for the best part of two kilometres above the Arabian Sea. Along the top of that cliff sits a paved promenade lined with cafes, yoga shalas, shops and guesthouses, all facing west towards one of the best sunset views on this coast. Below, the waves roll in against a beach that is not just a place to sunbathe but a genuine site of Hindu pilgrimage. Varkala sits in Thiruvananthapuram district in southern Kerala, and it manages a rare double act: it is at once a relaxed, backpacker-and-yoga-friendly beach resort and an ancient holy town. Travellers who have spent time on India’s west coast often compare it to Gokarna further north in Karnataka, another town where cliffs, temples and beaches sit side by side, though Varkala has its own distinct character, shaped as much by pilgrims and Ayurvedic patients as by sunset-watchers with a camera.

The cliff and the beach

The North Cliff is where most visitors spend their time, and it is easy to see why. A network of cafes and guesthouses is strung along the cliff edge, many of them with unbroken sea views from the dining table, and a paved footpath runs the length of the promenade, busy with shoppers, strollers and people simply parked on a wall watching the water. Steps and ramps lead down from various points on the cliff to the beach itself, and the walk down (and, more strenuously, back up) is part of the daily rhythm of a Varkala stay. From the top, the views out over the Arabian Sea are genuinely spectacular, especially in the last hour before sunset, when the red cliff face glows and the whole promenade seems to turn to face the horizon. Below the cliff lies Papanasam Beach, also known simply as Varkala Beach, a long stretch of sand that serves both as the main swimming beach and as a sacred bathing spot, which gives the town a layered, unusual atmosphere: sunbathers and pilgrims sharing the same shoreline.

A holy town as well as a beach resort

It is worth remembering that Varkala’s beach identity is, historically, secondary to its religious one. Papanasam Beach translates roughly as the place that washes away sins, and it has long been a site where Hindu families come to perform ancestral rites and rituals, with the sea itself believed to cleanse and purify. Above the beach stands the Janardanaswamy Temple, an ancient shrine dedicated to Vishnu that is thought to be around two thousand years old and is counted among the significant Vaishnavite temples of Kerala. It is sometimes referred to as the Dakshin Kashi, or Varanasi of the South, a nod to its standing as a place of pilgrimage and purification. A short distance away sits the Sivagiri Mutt, the ashram and samadhi (memorial shrine) of Sree Narayana Guru, the revered social reformer and spiritual leader whose teachings on equality and social reform left a deep mark on Kerala society. Sivagiri draws huge numbers of pilgrims each December and January for the annual Sivagiri pilgrimage. Visitors who come to Varkala purely for the beach scene should bear this side of the town in mind, particularly near the temple and Papanasam Beach itself, where modest dress and a respectful manner go a long way.

Beyond the main beach

Varkala rewards a bit of wandering beyond the North Cliff. South along the coast is the smaller, quieter Black Beach, also called Thiruvambadi Beach, popular with those who want a break from the busier main strip. Further north again is Odayam, a low-key stretch of sand backed by a handful of guesthouses, calmer and less commercial than Papanasam. Dotted along the cliffs are small natural springs, a curious feature of the local geology that adds another layer of interest to a cliff walk. A short trip north brings you to Kappil, where the backwaters meet the sea in a striking landscape of lagoon, river mouth and beach, and where boat trips are a popular way to spend an afternoon away from the crowds. History lovers can head towards Anchuthengu, sometimes written Anjengo, where a colonial-era fort and lighthouse recall the area’s past as an early European trading post on this coast. Ponnumthuruthu, known as Golden Island, is another nearby spot, home to a small temple reached by boat through the backwaters, and a pleasant half-day excursion for those who want to see a quieter, more rural side of the region.

The vibe: yoga, wellness and slow days by the sea

Varkala has long attracted a particular kind of traveller, the sort drawn to yoga mats and Ayurvedic massage as much as to swimming and sunbathing, and the town’s cliff scene reflects that. Yoga schools and Ayurvedic centres are everywhere along the promenade, offering everything from drop-in classes to longer courses and treatment packages, and the general pace of life leans towards slow mornings and unhurried evenings rather than late-night parties. That said, the sea itself is a genuine draw, and swimming, sunbathing and boogie boarding are all popular, alongside a growing surf scene that has made Varkala one of the more established surf spots on this stretch of coast. Paragliding is offered seasonally from the cliff, giving an entirely different perspective on the coastline, and boat trips out to sea, sometimes with the chance of dolphin sightings, are easy to arrange locally. Shopping along the cliff has its own character too, with Tibetan and Kashmiri traders alongside local tailors and craft stalls, and the overall nightlife is relaxed rather than raucous, more candlelit dinner with live acoustic music than nightclub. It has traditionally been a magnet for international travellers, though domestic tourism has grown steadily in recent years as more visitors from within India discover its appeal.

Where to stay

Accommodation in Varkala spans a wide range, from simple budget guesthouses and beach shacks to boutique hotels and smarter resort-style properties, with plenty of comfortable mid-range homestays filling the gap between them. The clifftop is the obvious draw, and staying right on the North Cliff, ideally with a room or balcony facing the sea, is for many people the highlight of a Varkala trip, letting you watch the sunset without even leaving your guesthouse. Quieter alternatives exist around Odayam and further from the main cliff for those who prefer a more peaceful base. Whatever your budget, it is worth booking ahead if you are travelling during the December and January peak season, when the town fills up quickly and the best clifftop rooms go first.

Food along the cliff

Eating out is one of the real pleasures of a Varkala stay. The cliff cafes are known above all for their seafood, with fresh fish and prawns often displayed on ice at the entrance so you can choose your own catch before it is grilled or cooked to order. Alongside the seafood you will find an eclectic mix of continental dishes, Israeli food (a legacy of Varkala’s long popularity with Israeli backpackers), classic Indian menus and hearty thalis, all served with a sea view that few restaurants elsewhere can match. For a taste of Kerala and Malabar cooking specifically, look beyond the tourist strip towards the town proper near the temple, where the food is more traditional and vegetarian, reflecting the area’s identity as a pilgrimage centre rather than a resort. Fresh coconut water and coconut-based dishes are, unsurprisingly, everywhere, and the combination of sea-view dining and good, fresh seafood is a big part of why so many visitors linger in Varkala longer than they planned.

Practical tips

A few things are worth keeping in mind. The sea off Varkala can have strong currents and rip tides, particularly outside the calmer months, so swim with caution and pay attention to any lifeguards or flag systems in place, heeding warnings rather than testing them. The cliff edge itself can be slippery, especially after rain or after dark, so take care when walking along the promenade at night. Because Varkala is a pilgrimage town as well as a beach resort, dress modestly around the temple and Papanasam Beach out of respect for those there for religious reasons. Many of the cliff cafes, shops and guesthouses are seasonal businesses and close, or operate on reduced hours, during the monsoon months, so it is worth checking locally if you are visiting outside the main season. During the December and January peak, accommodation books up fast, so plan ahead. Varkala also combines naturally with a wider Kerala itinerary, sitting within easy reach of Trivandrum, Kollam and the famous backwaters, making it a logical stop on a longer coastal trip. And whatever else you do during your stay, make time at least once to simply sit on the cliff edge as the sun goes down over the Arabian Sea.

A gem of the Kerala coast

Varkala is one of the most beautiful and relaxed beach destinations in South India, a place where red cliffs meet the Arabian Sea, where a laid-back clifftop world of cafes and guesthouses sits directly above a sacred beach, and where yoga, Ayurveda and simply slowing down by the sea come together in a way few other places manage. Whether you come for the temples and the pilgrimage, for the surf and the sunsets, or simply to spend a few unhurried days on a clifftop with a good view, Varkala tends to leave visitors planning their return before they have even left.