South Indian food

Where to Eat in Chennai: From Filter Coffee to Fine Dining

Guide details

Best time to visit

Mornings for tiffin, evenings for dining

How to get there

Spots right across the city

Highlights

Idli and dosa, filter coffee, biryani, Chettinad spice and banana leaf meals

Good for

Anyone who loves to eat

Price range

From a few rupees to fine dining

Ask anyone from Chennai what they miss most when they leave, and the answer is almost always food. This is a city that takes its meals seriously, from the humble idli to a proper banana leaf feast. Here is where to eat your way around it.

Breakfast like a local

Chennai mornings begin with tiffin. Soft idlis, crisp dosas and fluffy pongal, all served with coconut chutney and a bowl of sambar. The old institutions in Mylapore and the well-loved chains do it best, and no breakfast is finished without a tumbler of frothy filter coffee, poured back and forth until it is just right.

The main event

For lunch, nothing beats a South Indian meals plate served on a banana leaf, with rice, a rotating cast of vegetables, rasam and payasam to finish. When you want something richer, the city’s Chettinad restaurants bring the fire, all black pepper and slow-cooked spice. Biryani lovers are spoiled too, with the milder Ambur and Dindigul styles both easy to find.

By the sea and on the street

The East Coast Road is lined with seafood spots where the catch is as fresh as it gets. Back in the city, the street food is its own reward, from beachside sundal to late-night parottas torn straight off the griddle. Keep an eye out for the small, busy stalls, as a crowd is always a good sign.

Something smarter

Chennai’s fine dining scene has grown up in recent years, with stylish restaurants across the city serving everything from modern Indian to global menus. They make a lovely change of pace, though most locals will tell you the real magic still happens over a simple plate of idli.

However you like to eat, Chennai will feed you well. Come hungry, and do not be shy about going back for seconds.

Where to eat: our top picks

Ready to eat your way around the city? These are some of the Chennai spots worth seeking out, from humble tiffin legends to elegant fine dining.

Keep exploring Chennai